Something to Declare

Ixelles and Art Nouveau

Sunday, October 19, 2025

Our Lonely Planet travel book (sorry, Rick Steves, you are not the only act in town) mapped out an Art Nouveau walking tour. Belgium claims to be the birthplace of this style of art and architecture popular during the Belle Epoque period (between 1890 and 1910). It often involved natural sinuous curves of plants and flowers, and asymmetry, to create unusual forms. My favorites include the works of the Czech artist, Alphonse Mucha:

In architecture, Art Nouveau involved making use of modern materials (iron, glass, ceramics). Many of Brussels’ famous Art Nouveau buildings are found in the upscale Ixelles neighborhood. So we boarded our now-familiar Métro, then a tram, this time to Ixelles, about a half hour trip. First stop: the striking Maison Hannon, designed by Jules Brunfaut:

Right next door was Les Hiboux, designed by Édouard Pelseneer, characterized by a motif of twin owls (right above my head):

The breath-taking house and workshop of the artist Louise de Hem, designed by Ernest Blerot, was constructed between 1902 and 1905:

Victor Horta (1861-1947) (below, bottom) was one of the founders of the Art Nouveau movement in Brussels, and his name graces both a museum and a transit station. Two of his buildings on the walking tour were the Hôtel Max Hallet and the Hôtel Solvay:

The Hôtel Max Hallet (above, left) has been described as representing the more “sober” aspect of Art Nouveau. With its bow windows and porches, the Hôtel Solvay (above, right) less so.

The elegant Hôtel Tassel was characterized as the “Manifesto of Art Nouveau in Brussels:”

This had to do with the architect’s having designed everything in the minutest detail, e.g., the door handles.

On the Rue Defacqz (pronounce that, I dare you!), there was the Hôtel Ciamberlani, designed by Paul Hankar, as well the house Hankar built for himself:

We noted that several of these buildings are now embassies for countries such as Cuba and Argentina. But enough Art Nouveau, already, right? Time to eat! (Pat: Listen up!)

A July New York Times article, “36 Hours in Brussels,” recommended a restaurant, opened in 2018, called Fernand Obb (below, lower right). The restaurant has won awards for “the best shrimp croquette in Brussels” (below, top, to the right):

They also served a Diable Burger (above, top, to the left), topped with caramelized onions, bacon and chili sauce (obviously health food). And we couldn’t not order the Gaufrite (a Belgian “waffle” made out of fried potato (above, lower left), which came with a choice of dips (FYI, we’re getting used to the taste of frites dipped in mayonnaise). I tried another Belgian beer, called Taras Boulba, brewed by the Brasserie de la Senne. Crisp and very satisfying. The restaurant was running a contest to decide which is better: Gaufrites or Frites? Our vote: GAUFRITTES!

But we’re doubling our dose of statins tonight, and having blueberries for dinner. Tomorrow we go to Bruges.