Something to Declare

Post No. 13: Bern.

September 16, 2023.

Yesterday (9/15) Stef, Lisa and I drove from Zürich to Bern. We parked at the Bahnhof, where they have one of the ubiquitous Bretzelkönig (Pretzel King) shops.

We bought one to share, covered with sunflower seeds. A truly superior pretzel, unlike any other we have ever tasted.

Bern is where the Swiss Parliament sits. This city was was chosen for the rôle in 1848, because (1) Bern straddles the German- and French-speaking parts of Switzerland, and (2) the city of Bern agreed to pick up the costs of its construction.

“Sits” is the operative word, since Switzerland emphasizes that Bern is not the “Capital” of Switzerland, but rather the “seat of government.” What’s the difference? You tell me. Maybe they didn’t want to give any particular city that kind of status (Bundesstadt or “Federal City”) over any of the others.

The walking tour took us to the Bärenplatz, at which is located the Prison Tower (Käfigturm).

It was originally part of the city walls, until renovated in the 1640s. It served as the local prison till 1897; “Käfig” means “cage”). Note that the clock doesn’t have a minute hand. In those slower-paced days, an hour hand was considered sufficient. Note also that the end of the hour hand is in the shape of a hand. Also see the crest with the bears (the symbol of Bern), hence the name “Bärenplatz.”

We walked past the Dutch Tower (Hollanderturm)

and up to the modern fountain designed by the Swiss surrealist Meret Oppenheim (1983).

It’s covered with moss and other vegetation (i.e., life and growth) and Oppenheim is reported to have suggested that it was intended to show communication between the work of art and the observer. Well, most of the observers (Bern’s citizens) made it clear that they didn’t like it at all, and wanted it removed. They were overruled by the City Government (so much for the voice of the people).

Then to the Parliament (Bundeshaus), shown at the beginning of this post, with a passageway through which you can see surrounding areas of the city.

Walk over the Kirchenfeld bridge, which crosses the river Aare, and has nets to try to forestall suicide attempts.

At the end of the bridge is the local art museum, where we turned around and crossed the bridge again, viewing the dam across the river.

This serves the same flood-control purposes as the one in Luzern. The bright blue sheen to the water is caused by glaciers that feed into the Aare River. We continued on to the Kornhausplatz, to see the column with the statue of the Chindlifresser (an ogre devouring children).

Our book guide, Rick, suggests that this was either a reference to the Greek god Chronos, or something with which to frighten children away from playing on the walls.

After lunch at Café des Pyrenees, we were in time to watch the chiming of the famous Zytgloggeturm (clockhouse tower), dating back to 1540.

At four minutes before each hour, the figures come to life, including the jester, the rooster (who crows) and Father Time (who turns his hourglass). In today’s high-tech automated society, it didn’t seem like such a big deal, although it wowed them in the 16th Century, and still draws crowds every hour. Some Middle Ages humor: the jester comes out too early, proving how funny he is.

A bit more cheese shopping, then back to the car and return to Zürich West.