Something to Declare

September 18, 2024. Dubrovnik and Konavle.

This morning, we drove to the top of Srd Mountain (pronounced sur-DJE), about 1,300 feet above sea level, where we enjoyed views of Dubrovnik (walls of the Old Town shown below).

Srd Mountain is also the home of the War Museum, dedicated to the history of the Homeland War of the Balkans (1991-1995). We were given a talk by Tihomir, who’d been 8 years old during this conflict, and he gave us a view of the war from a very personal perspective:

About 100,000 people died in the conflict, and 2 million were displaced. The conflict ended with the Dayton Accords, through which the country of Bosnia and Herzegovina was both consolidated, and divided (for administrative purposes) into Bosnian and Serbian zones.

We descended Srd Mountain by cable car, to the Old City of Dubrovnik.

We undertook a search for La Dolce Vita gelato/ice cream store. The place had been recommended to Stef by her friend Janet Lewis. We were successful and shared a cup of the the chocolate/pistachio/hazelnut. Superb. Thanks, Jan!

Later this afternoon, we drove to the rural Konavle region outside of Dubrovnik. We visited a farmstead and winery, Kameni Mlin, owned by the Martinović family. Our host, Dario, put us through our paces on olive oil, wine, and cheese knowledge.

He picked up on my strong resemblance to Stanley Tucci (?!), and quizzed me on the difference between green and black olives (“Uh…that some are green and some are black?”). Wrong!

We learned that most olive oils are “virgin,” but that there are purity qualities (related to the soil) which can allow an olive oil to be called “extra virgin.” Also that your olive oil needs to be “cold pressed,” since heating can increase volume, but lower quality. Furthermore, you should never cook with olive oil, since heating destroys its flavorful qualities. Sauté your food with sunflower oil, and then drizzle on some olive oil at the end. How much we didn’t know!

We then proceeded to a tasting of a Prosecco apéritif, and local red white wine (something for everyone!), accompanied by local cheeses, olives and prosciutto.

Dinner consisted of pork served “under the bell,” a traditional preparation in which the meat is slow-cooked under a large, iron bell and covered with ashes and embers. The meal also included lamb, potatoes and vegetables. Stef had veggies and potatoes that she reported were delish.

Plus: Live folk music (above, lower right), and energetic dancing and singing by all assembled. L’Chaim!, or as they say here: Živjeli! (pronounced “Zhiv-el-LEE!”).

Tomorrow, doviðenja! to Dubrovnik. Off to Bosnia & Herzegovina. Mostar and Sarajevo await.