Something to Declare

Better luck next time!

December 30, 2025

Now I know how Franklin felt in 1848. Perhaps you have heard about Franklin’s Lost Expedition (1845-1848)? No? Sir John Franklin and 129 crewmen set sail on the H.M.S. Erebus and H.M.S. Terror. He had the idea of seeking the Northwest Passage to the Pacific. It didn’t go very well: Both ships got stuck in the ice off King William Island and had to be abandoned.

(Above, artist’s rendition: There were no survivors). At least Matt and I haven’t had to deal with starvation, scurvy and cannibalism.

You all know about the unsatisfactory weather conditions up here (overcast, snow), which have persisted through this entire trip and prevented any chance at seeing the Northern Lights. On-line research had described Whitehorse, Yukon, as a cloudless desert, ideal for viewing the Aurora. Hah! To add to this, I developed a cough on Saturday. We searched for a walk-in clinic, one of which was unable to serve us because we’re not Canadian. The other does serve non-Canadians, but the next appointment was 9:30 the next morning.

To console ourselves, we dined at the Dirty Northern Bastard. I was feeling starved for something green and they were able to accommodate us: Brussels sprouts (below, left middle) which were (surprise!) deep fried.

By the time we got back to the hotel, my symptoms had worsened. So we wound up skipping the Ice Pilot adventure (a tour in a single-engine airplane of the Whitehorse metro area and the surrounding country), and I spent the entire afternoon sleeping.

This morning (Tuesday), I was feeling substantially better (thank you, Nyquil!). But we decided to play it safe and go to the River Valley Medical Clinic.

There, Dr. Syed diagnosed a non-flu, non-Covid viral infection that appeared to be on its way out. To celebrate, we to went to Matt’s favorite Whitehorse bakery, the Baked Café on Main Street. Bacon croissant, and savory scone with feta, red pepper and green onion.

These Yukon bakers are very creative! Matt said that they seem to have an edge on places in New York.

Back to the “Singer Organ Recital”: “On its way out” did not mean “cured;” I still felt a teensy bit rocky. So I eschewed today’s activity (Wildlife Preserve and visit to the local Hot Springs); but Matt (always intrepid) went off on his own.

There were about 15 people on the bus to the Yukon Wildlife Preserve. Matt described it as sort of half-zoo/half free-range (there were fences, to protect the animals, but there was a lot of room within the fences for them to roam.)

As a wildlife photographer, Matt didn’t disappoint.

Above, clockwise: (1) Wood Bison, which differ from their Western Plains cousins by the size and slope of the hump. (2) Mule Deer, which Matt described as looking like “baby deer” with cute, fuzzy faces. (3) Musk Ox. The group was told that the male musk ox secretes a liquid from a gland near the eye that attracts females, but that also has a smell unpleasant to humans (Matt said he couldn’t detect any noxious odor). (4) Mountain Goat, described as “cute” and “social,” and having high-pitched calls. (5) Elk, not native to the Canadian northwest. They were apparently imported here from the good old U.S.A. for purposes of hunting. Yeah, some Americans brought them here so they could shoot them (sigh). (6) Darr Sheep. Matt reported being excited by the way they bounded and gamboled towards the viewers. Of course, this was because the Preserve places the food for the animals near the viewing areas.

Not pictured were two Golden Eagles and a Moose, the latter of which was described as “very tall.” Below is Matt holding a (heavy) moose antler.

From there the tour went to the Takhini Hot Springs. Matt describes this as “three pools surrounded by snowy wonder.” He had a chance to see people enter the steamy water, their hair turning quickly to icicle art. The bad news: No photos allowed.

One other little factoid: Matt’s group was told that “Takhini” is the local indigenous word for “mosquito.” Apparently, when the snow melts in the Spring, and the river overflows, there is so much standing water that the place is the Mosquito Breeding Center of the Yukon, where no one can venture out without protective netting. You don’t usually think of the Frozen North as a place where they have to worry about insects, although there is this quip that the mosquito is the Minnesota State Bird.

That’s about it, folks. Tomorrow we fly back to Vancouver, and on Thursday (New Year’s Day) from Vancouver back home.

This has been my fourth try at the Northern Lights. I have said that it will be my last. On the other hand……………….

………………..there is this glass-domed train in northern Norway (just sayin’).

Anyone taking bets? Stay tuned!