Something to Declare

Osaka, Sunday, May 17, 2026

Nearing the end of our Japan soujourn. Before we get into today’s activities in Osaka, a reference to our last dinner in Kyoto the day before.

Dinner was at a Japanese-Italian fusion restaurant called Il Ghiottone, run by Chef Yasuhiro Sasajima. He initially came to the professional culinary world through a part-time job when he was 17 years old. He’d gotten a job at a high-end restaurant, followed by training at various Italian restaurants throughout Japan’s Kansai region (which includes Osaka and Kyoto).

So, the connection between Chef Sasajima and Italy is rooted in a shared culinary philosophy. Instead of copying Italian dishes verbatim, Chef Sasajima translates the core essence of Italian culture through a local Japanese lens, merging Italian ideas with local Kyoto vegetables (kyo-yasai) and fresh seafood from neighboring waters.

Of special note is the top of the top-most photo above. It is a single asparagus spear covered with edible charcoa (well, who knew?). FYI, the name of the restaurant Il Ghiottone comes from the Italian word for “glutton” (ahem!). That concludes our stay in Kyoto.

We went by van to Osaka this morning. Osaka is one of Japan’s culinary capitals, known for its street food; its unofficial motto is “kuidaore,” or “eat till you drop.”

Very different from traditionalist Kyoto, Osaka is much more lively and energetic, the streets filled with crowds, covered shopping arcades and the sounds of people hawking their wares. Also an emphasis on gaudy, kitsch-y displays in the retro Shin-Sekai neighborhood.

This included large mock-ups of food, like shrimp, egg and squid. That’s me, below, with tour companion Toni Friedman.

Lunch was casual, involving kushikatsu (food on skewers)

This was followed by a visit to Tower Knives Osaka, an acclaimed knife gallery.

It was founded in 2011 by Canadian-born Bjorn Heiberg (above, lower left), who demonstrated the superiority of Japanese blades with carrots and tomatoes. With proper technique and knife, no juice from the tomato spills on the cutting board. I indulged myself in the purchase of two chef knives, one for my place, one for Stef’s.

We visited the Doguya-suji Arcade, filled with shops selling restaurant equipment and kitchen supplies. There were more opportunities to see young folk in anime and manga costume.

And the canal and a ferris wheel. STAN, delete top photo

Dinner in the Dotonburi neighborhood was “progressive” in a literal sense, conveyor- belt sushi at Daiki Suisan….

….followed by okonomiyaki (savory pancakes containing flour, egg, cabbage, and pork belly) at Botejyu.

N.B.: The okonomiyaki are topped with kewpie mayonnaise. This is Japan’s unique mayonnaise, invented in 1925. Per Wikipedia, kewpie “relies strictly on egg yolks and a blend of rice and apple vinegars.” Along with added MSG (surprise!), this creates a rich, custard-y, umami-loaded flavor.

In keeping with the Osaka ethos, we’d truly eaten until we dropped. Back to the hotel to collapse.