“Cockles and Mussels, Alive, Alive-O”

Stan and Matt Visit Ireland (Days 3 and 4)

Galway, Saturday and Sunday, October 17-18, 2026

Because of Matt’s work schedule, this trip was necessarily short. We still wanted to see something besides Dublin, the choices being between Belfast and Galway. Since Belfast is also a city (and not really in the Irish Republic proper), Galway won.

Galway has been described by The New York Times as Ireland’s “most charming city.” No argument from us. No Dublin-like monumental architecture. Things are smaller-scale and reflect the connection to the sea.

(The photos above are not mine.) We made our way to the “Latin Quarter” (above, middle left and bottom). The name is derived from the Bohemian atmosphere (literature, music), and Galway’s historical connection to trade (e.g., wine, wool) with Spain, France and other countries where the romance languages are spoken.

The “feel” of Galway is connected to the presence of the River Corrib (“Coiribe” in Gaelic), which runs through it. It’s one of the shortest city rivers in Europe, but also one of the fastest flowing.

It was almost as if you were seeing Colorado River-like rapids in the middle of a town (above, top). When the rush of water gushing along the banks hits the bay, it begins to calm down. Along the bay, there are remains of wrecked boats, which can be seen from the pastel-colored houses. At the persistent urgings of a local mother and son, we also visited the Salthill Promenade (above, bottom), which parallels the beach.

The streets in the Latin Quarter are noted for buskers (street musicians). The photos below are better than the ones I took.

Our itinerary included the Galway Market, on the north end of the Latin Quarter.

For those of you who know me well, no surprise that I was drawn to Sheridan’s, a cheesemonger (above, top and middle left). I had some tastes, and made a list of cheeses to seek out in Zabar’s on return to NYC.

Lunch was a wonderful peas-and-potatoes curry (above, middle right; not terribly Irish?). Matt bought some hand-made scarves and stopped at the vendor selling “fairies” (hand-made figurines (examples below).

Matt told me he’d heard that the local Galway rugby team (Connacht) had a big game scheduled for Saturday evening, and we combed the internet for dining venues where the game might be televised. We were fortunate enough to get a table at The Skeff with a view of the big screen. The pan-fried sea bass with pumpkin sauce was first-rate.

Regarding rugby itself, I am at a loss to explain. It seems like an amalgam of American football, soccer and professional wrestling that was (to me) incomprehensible. The good news is that Connacht upset the (highly favored) visiting team from north London (the Saracens) 45 to 36.

Matt left the restaurant at halftime. He told me later that, on his way back to the hotel, he could hear the cheering from the stadium. A local guy sat down next to me and asked me about my appreciation of rugby (as noted, zero). He’d figured out that I was an American, and asked my opinion of the current U.S. administration. When I replied in unflattering terms, he mused about how Americans could have voted for these people. (No comment.)

We awoke early the next morning to get the shuttle to the Cliffs of Moher in nearby County Clare. These are iconic sea cliffs that run nine miles along the rugged west coast of Ireland. They speak for themselves:

There was also a small castle-like structure, the top of which you accessed by a twisty circular staircase, where there were more views.

And on the land side were acres of rolling green fields populated with sheep.

Matt couldn’t resist the urge to violate the rules, and step out from the path onto the grassy margin of the cliffs (above, lower right).

After a brief repast at the Visitors Center, back to Galway and the train back to Dublin. Back in town, strolled around and relaxed later at Garavan’s pub with their specialty Irish coffee (strong coffee, whisky, Demerara brown sugar and cream (beyond yummy).

It was approaching evening, and we realized it was Sunday, and there might be an opportunity for more spectator sports (U.S. professional NFL football?).

The time difference allowed us to park ourselves at Merchant’s (another pub), where they were showing the New York Jets game (!) on the small screen to the right, below, with the local football (soccer) game on the larger screen.

Dinner consisted of bangers and mash (sausages atop mashed potatoes in a Guinness sauce). The Irish know how to eat!

Tomorrow is our last day!

2 responses to ““Cockles and Mussels, Alive, Alive-O””

  1. I always enjoy your blog, which I

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  2. Well, in line with the “Latin Quarter” you know, or do you know, that the ships of the Spanish Armada are sometimes credited with the dark haired Irish as some of the crippled Armada ships discharged their sailors on Irish shores after their escape from their unfortunate engagement with the ships of Good Queen Bess. I’ve never been to Northern Ireland but you made the right choice. It’s nice to see that sports are how Irishmen north and south bash each other about. Women too (why when u s. Footballers must wear helmets do women soccer players not have to?) I’ll put Galway on my still to visit list, especially as it is on the same side coast as Mayo.

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